Toys for cats who won't play

Why your cat ignores toys

Cats are built to hunt, so when a healthy cat won't play, the problem is often the toy, the setting, or the way the toy is moving, not the cat.^[8]

• Wrong kind of prey. Most cats prefer to hunt certain creatures. Some would rather chase mice, while others prefer birds or bugs. A feather toy may leave a mouse hunter cold.^[6]
• Wrong kind of movement. A toy pushed straight at your cat doesn't act like prey. Real prey moves away, hides, stops, and changes speed.^[7],[8]
• Wrong time. Cats are most active around dawn and dusk, so morning and evening play usually goes best. A cat who has just eaten may not be in the mood either.^[4],[2]
• Fear. Some cats are afraid of certain objects, or of a toy that moves a certain way. A smaller toy moved more slowly can help.^[8]
• Too much at once. A heap of toys that are always out stops being interesting, so offer a few at a time. If a fast toy seems to put your cat off, slow it right down. And some cats get agitated on catnip; if yours does, skip it.^[4],[8]
• The toy is already dead. Once a toy has been caught and 'killed', it soon loses its appeal. A toy that's always lying around stops being interesting.^[1]

When not playing is a reason to see your vet

Cats have evolved to hide pain and illness. Sometimes the only thing you notice is that your cat sleeps more, plays less, or seems restless.^[5]

• Arthritis. Arthritis is very common in older cats and often goes undiagnosed. Signs include resting more, playing less with people or other pets, and being reluctant to jump up or down.^[3]
• Illness. A cat who is unwell may seem withdrawn, or let their coat go. If your cat hasn't eaten properly for 24 hours, get veterinary help right away.^[5]

Move the toy like prey

How you move a toy matters more than which toy you buy. Think like a mouse or a bird, not like someone waving a flag.^[1],[7]

• Move it away, not toward. Prey runs away from a cat. Move the toy away from your cat, change direction and speed, and let it stop and hold still now and then.^[7],[8]
• Make it jerky. Small, jerky, random movements catch a cat's eye far better than smooth ones.^[1]
• Let it hide. Slide the toy under a towel or rug, let it poke out, then pull it back. Drag it behind furniture and around corners.^[8],[7]
• Watching counts. Don't give up if your cat doesn't pounce right away. Watching and stalking are a big part of the hunt. If your cat is watching, they're interested, so slow down and keep going.^[8]
• Keep hands out of it. Use a wand toy so your hands stay away from the lure and your cat can stalk, chase, and 'kill' the prey.^[4],[1]

Bird, mouse, or bug? Find your cat's favorite

The Ohio State University's Indoor Pet Initiative suggests a simple test. Try a few toys from each prey group, make each one move, and see which your cat follows. Switching toy types every 20 seconds or so helps you compare.^[6]

• Bird hunters. Try feathers and feathered toys, and make them fly through the air. You can land the toy on a high perch and then flutter it off again.^[6],[8]
• Mouse hunters. Try furry toys, small plush mice, and balls, moving along the ground. Let the toy slip under a rug or behind furniture, then peek out again.^[6],[8]
• Bug hunters. Try tiny objects with lots of movement, like a string with a knot on the end or kibble tossed across the floor.^[6]

Once you know, pick toys that look and feel like that prey. Cats play harder and longer with toys that resemble real prey.^[6],[2]

Short sessions that end with a catch

• Short and often. Cats are sprinters, not marathon runners. One minute of frenzied play is a good result. Short, frequent sessions match how cats hunt.^[1],[2]
• How long. Many cats do well with several short sessions a day, from a couple of minutes up to about 10 or 15.^[4],[8]
• Play before meals. Research found that the hungrier a cat was, the harder and longer they played. Try a session before a meal rather than right after.^[2]
• Let them win. Cats need to succeed or they lose interest. Let your cat catch the toy, and when they do, let them bat it and hold it for a moment.^[4],[7]
• Wind down, then a treat. Slow the toy down, as if the prey is tiring, and let your cat catch it more often before you stop. Stopping suddenly can be frustrating. A small treat at the end feels like eating the catch.^[8],[7]
• Finish laser games on a real toy. A laser dot can be chased but never caught. Switch to a wand toy at the end so the game finishes on a win.^[1]

Rotate toys, and try a new scent

• A few out, the rest away. Keep a stash of toys, put out only four or five at a time, and swap them each week so they stay new.^[4]
• One at a time works too. Have two or three favorites on the go and give your cat one at a time.^[1]
• Catnip isn't for every cat. Many cats don't respond to catnip at all. VCA puts it at about half; a 2017 study found about one in three.^[4],[9]
• Silver vine is worth a try. In that study, almost 80% of cats responded to silver vine, including almost three in four of the cats who ignored catnip. The researchers note that silver vine and catnip are generally considered safe and not toxic or addictive for cats.^[9]

Wand and string safety

The toys that tempt a reluctant cat most are often wands with feathers, string, or ribbons. Treat them as play-with-you toys only.^[4],[1]